Miles: 2,067.4 — Pancakes and triple trail magic at Harrison’s set us up for a sunny, solo kind of day. We crossed the Kennebec by ferry, stopped for milkshakes in Caratunk, and wandered around Central Maine’s ponds in that crisp early fall air. Found the perfect tent site at Bald Mountain Brook and shared Miles’ tent while a squirrel staged a full-scale stakeout during dinner.
In the morning we packed up and then went up to get breakfast. As we waited we got coffee. I got the very last mug, it was a bit dusty but I didn’t think much of it. I was used to eating out of a dirty cook pot, who cared about a little dirt? I brushed off the rim of the mug and filled it with the strongest, black coffee I’d tasted in a long time. I only took a few sip, it tasted funny and I couldn’t quite put my finger on it.
Harrison made us fruit-filled pancakes, a full dozen! He also brought out sausage, eggs, juice, and milk. More than enough for me, exactly enough for most thru-hikers
We talked to the hikers who had come up the 0.25 mile blue-blaze from the shelter. They introduced themselves as Incubator, Sponge, and Photon. Over breakfast we talked about how different our hikes were.
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They told us they had only been hiking for a little over four months. I’d already been on trail for over six. I swallowed hard, feeling a little ashamed, but somehow also had the thought that no, seven months out here is EXACTLY what I needed.
I thought back to when I started, when I told myself I’d probably be done in five months. How hilarious it sounded now that I’d gotten to know myself. I told them they must be so strong, that it’s incredible how fast they’ve gone. They laughed and said, “We’re strong? You’re the ones who have stamina! We could never stay out here that long!” I supposed it was true, mentally we might’ve been stronger in some ways. Physically, though, they’d definitely won.
But in that moment, yeah it took me this long, I realized that it wasn’t about ANY of that! It wasn’t about how fit I or they were, it wasn’t about how long it took or didn’t take us, it wasn’t about how far we went each day. It was about that fact that we were out here. That we were hiking the Appalachian Trail. That we were HIKING OUR OWN HIKES (which is such a simple description of something that was, surprisingly, hard for me to do).
Before we left, I went in to say goodby and thank Harrison. He told us another surprise, he was taking care of the whole tab, our friends Cal and Cindy didn’t have to pay for a thing. It was like triple trail magic. We thanked him for his generosity and went on our way.
We left Harrison’s feeling fresh and ready to punch out a good-sized day. We crossed the sketchy bridge over the stream and back to the AT. Luckily for the next few miles there weren’t any mountains. We made it to the Kennebec River quickly and the ferry operator took us across the wide river. Into Caratunk we walked. We stopped at the Caratunk House hostel so that I could call my parents. I got coffee and a milkshake.
Miles didn’t really want to stop there but he sat outside and used the wifi. I spent my entire time there talking on the phone trying to figure out the logistics of the last two sections of our hike: Caratunk to Monson, Monson to Katahdin. We were so close to the end and it was, honestly, kind of hard to fathom. I started to take my time with everything. Even leaving the hostel that day. I was trying to upload a blog post, but the wifi sucked.
Miles grew increasingly impatient with waiting at the hostel. We wanted get through the next 18 miles today so we’d be closer to our original plan to summit before September 18th. I didn’t really care, for once. I usually clung to him, but today I told him to go ahead. The terrain looked simple, finally, and I was ready to do my favorite thing: listen to podcasts, cruise at a good pace, and smell the early fall air. The trail would lead us around the ponds of Central Maine and I was so ready for it. I paid my tab (coffee and a milkshake, both incredible) and started to pack my stuff. Miles and I left together but he quickly gained speed and dropped me on a small hill. I didn’t mind at all. I popped my headphones in and let the smile spread across my face. The sun was out, it was a bit chilly but it was sunny, and I was so happy to drink in the fresh air and hear the leaves crunch beneath my feet.
I breathed deeply and walked and listened. At some point I came to a trail head parking lot. Mioles was there. A nice woman was also there doing trail magic. I hadn’t seen trail magic in at least a week and somehow now I was getting it twice in one day. I realized, though, I didn’t really need it. Yeah it was free and most starving hikers would take advantage.
But I had enough food, I wanted to let other hikers take advantage. There were so many hikers out here that didn’t have enough. I accepted a nice iced coffee and then moseyed on my way, leaving the trail angel to talk to the other hikers. I followed Miles for a little bit and we talked about the podcast I had listened to. How good the terrain was. Then I lost him again. I didn’t mind though.
I kept walking and listening rounding lakes and ponds, eventually catching Miles again. We saw someone waiting to spot a moose at a pond as the sun began to set. Just before the shelter we found people camped around the brook nearby. Butter was there! The poles were holding up for her! We found the perfect tent site and shared Miles’ tent.
A squirrel stalked me while I made dinner. It ran around and squealed at me from trees branches up above. I ate my dinner, keeping an eye on it. He quieted down at some point, but I knew he probably didn’t go far. We watched as the fast hikers rolled into camp and tried to hang their food bags. I got us water. We went to sleep early, ready for another big day tomorrow.